Danmtchl
iMTB Rockstah
Nice to get out in some stronger surf. I have been tentative since my back surgery last January, so pretty much only surfing stuff from about chest high or lower. There is a pumping swell this weekend that pushed the surf in my go-to spot to the chest high to maybe a foot overhead zone. I was apprehensive to be out in the bigger surf yesterday, so I was a little cautious and didn't catch much, but I did learn a lot about where I needed to be and to not be.
Much better luck today. I was still a little selective as the biggest ones were mostly closeouts, but caught a few gems and had my single best wave of the season. Yay me! The new Stewart fish is the board I needed at this point in my surfing - at 6'8" it's small enough to duck dive, but big enough to catch waves easily and very forgiving of poor foot placement, bad take offs and choppy water.
Random goofy-footer on a medium wave today... Good shape, glassy.
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Went out to Luanda Bay yesterday, it was firing 4-6 with just perfect swells. I caught 4 waves, just because it was so crowded. I should have went today also but have things to do around the house.