Peaky and glassy yesterday morning at my usual spot. About waist to chest high on the best waves. The wave at Trail 1 is very lazy - it looks great, but doesn't harness a whole lot of energy. But I was able to give the new board a go. Catches waves easily as I expected it would, and my feet seem to hit the board in the right spot almost every time. It's fast and stable, although the waves were a little too mushy to give 'er a proper test. Oh and I got a "sweet board" from a random 20 something surfer as I exited the water. That's what it's all about! Who cares how it rides, as long as people compliment it!
Another crowded Sunday morning:
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As I mentioned in another thread, my back was a mess. When I stood on my first wave, I couldn't really get into a properly flexed position. Luckily, I loosened up enough to catch about 6 or 7 more. Lately riding and surfing have actually helped my back, but not today. I struggled a little getting out of the water and walking back to the car.