From what I've read, and experienced personally, IRD doesn't really put out much of anything good.What was worse than the Shimano chain was the IRD Black lighting chain. It did not work straight out of the cool tin it came in. It would not shift correctly at all ever, even on a new drive train.
From what I've read, and experienced personally, IRD doesn't really put out much of anything good.
I had an IRD hyrdo brakeset, and the master cylinder started splitting in half and leaking. I contacted them about it, and got a big "Sorry, please try a new one." Not a fan.They actually make great headsets, King quality, at half the price. My favorite road bar is their B2 carbon bar. They make good sruff, you just have to look through all the retro styled stuff to find the good stuff.
I had an IRD hyrdo brakeset, and the master cylinder started splitting in half and leaking. I contacted them about it, and got a big "Sorry, please try a new one." Not a fan.
@mtnbikej ,Time to update this:
Headed out for a ride yesterday....only made it 1/2 mile before I was back in the garage...crank was creaky and loose, brake was dragging bad.
Pulled off the non drive side crank arm of my Xt 770, the washer on the inside of the axle mount popped out, and I noticed a crack around the axle hole. Granted these cranks have nearly 20k miles on them...just sad to see them go.
Maybe then some company decides to design products that pass a custom stress test rig called the "crazy singlespeeder that sometimes tows a dropout mounted trailer" bicycle torture device. They will test to 5x the standard fatigue levels, to account for how J's mileage and elevation climbed is about 5x the perceived average.@mtnbikej ,
Seriously... you should really consider becoming a Test Dummy. As much as you break? Any R&D company would be honored to have you on board!
We should consider a series of articles over on the Magazine side of imtbtrails.
Title:
" broke by "J"! ...and What You Should have Bought, maybe..."
by mtnbikej
Nice of Shimano to do that for you since you were JRA as they all sayShimano stood behind their product. I don't know what to say... friggen bravo. I couldn't precisely say what caused my RD's B-Link to get twisted in like that, but they could've said things like the bike's RD hanger was bent or any sort of other things to try and prove their proudly made product is not at fault, but...
View attachment 13691
Does the B-link look longer on the pic on my bike or something? Maybe the bore for the fastener cracked and allowed the RD to slip backwards and jam up. I guess I rode it like that for a dozen miles before it went kaput, coincidentally JRA, up a smooth climb.
Oh wait, I did have an XTR pedal just fall off the axle once. Luckily the bike was on the stand, not the trail.
Time to update.....again.
Was out at Noble Canyon this weekend and had an issue with my Monarch RT3 being "stuck down". I had replaced the air can about 2 months ago...this was only the 2nd ride. Went to pull the air can off today to check things out. Because the Shock was stuck down, the air in the Positive chamber had slipped into the Negative chamber and it would not equalize. Put a rag through the lower eyelet and backed the air can off, waiting for the big boom....which there was, when the can finally broke loose. Think I found the problem:
View attachment 20200 View attachment 20201 View attachment 20202
The top cap is cracked where the piston shaft mounts. While I love the way the Monarch feels compared to the Fox shox....this is my 3rd warranty replacement, in addition to a warranty rebuild.
Heard back from SRAM.....basically: "Too Bad, So Sad" for me. Out of warranty, and they won't even try to fix it.
Guess it is time to send the RP23 to PUSH....hopefully they can make it feel like the Monarch.
I've just finished reading two threads about the Stans Neo hub that was just sent to me. One thread on MTBR, the other on Pinkbike. Both are filled with stories and pictures of broken Neo hub bodies and failed bearings, along with stories from Stans about how they were "early production" or a "bad batch." The posts were all recent - like within the last few weeks.
I've had two rides on mine, and I really liked they way they sound and the way they feel. Quick, quiet engagement. But after reading those two threads, I have little faith that the Neo rear hub will last more than a month. I am sad. I need to keep shopping for a DT Swiss 240s rear hub.
I've just finished reading two threads about the Stans Neo hub that was just sent to me. One thread on MTBR, the other on Pinkbike. Both are filled with stories and pictures of broken Neo hub bodies and failed bearings, along with stories from Stans about how they were "early production" or a "bad batch." The posts were all recent - like within the last few weeks.
I've had two rides on mine, and I really liked they way they sound and the way they feel. Quick, quiet engagement. But after reading those two threads, I have little faith that the Neo rear hub will last more than a month. I am sad. I need to keep shopping for a DT Swiss 240s rear hub.
I've just finished reading two threads about the Stans Neo hub that was just sent to me. One thread on MTBR, the other on Pinkbike. Both are filled with stories and pictures of broken Neo hub bodies and failed bearings, along with stories from Stans about how they were "early production" or a "bad batch." The posts were all recent - like within the last few weeks.
I've had two rides on mine, and I really liked they way they sound and the way they feel. Quick, quiet engagement. But after reading those two threads, I have little faith that the Neo rear hub will last more than a month. I am sad. I need to keep shopping for a DT Swiss 240s rear hub.
Also, don't waste the money on a 240 hub.....unless you feel fat and are counting every gram. The 350 runs the same internals with a little less machining if the hub shell for a whole lot less.
Rock Shox Reverb = Junk!
I've gone through 2 Reverbs now. One regular, one Stealth. Both have been nothing but headaches. The CB Joplin was better. The hydrologic line needs bleeding every month on both. Now the Stealth (that is only a year old) is spongey and Incycle wants $300.00 to rebuild it. I told them to "kick rocks, I can buy a new post for that much!"
I'll second that.... "
Rock Shox Reverb = Junk!"
I'm also on my 2nd one. The first one got rebuilt twice, and then I bent it. So, they warrantied me a new one. This new one has now been rebuilt twice also, picking it up today. Fingers crossed, may be time to try something different.
I don't run a dropper.....I have in the past. A CB Kronolog, that I got free....2nd ride out it started slipping. Got it rebuilt for free. Lasted a few more months, then began slipping again. Got it rebuilt for free. Ran it a few more months then decided I didn't need a dropper post, so I put the Thomson back on.
My impressions of droppers is that they all have problems....the name of the game is to find the one that has the least problems and hope you can deal with it.
Interesting. My buddy has a 350 and it's loud as hell. Puts his Chris King to shame. I've heard other 350s that were loud. It's pretty much the only reason I would insist on the 240 over the 350. My 240s was nice and quiet. I can't justify $400 for a hub though. I bought my DT Swiss EX 1750 set (with 240s hubs and bladed spokes) for $650 in 2007. No way I'm spending over half that for just a hub. I might end up with the 350 - or just buy a take-off wheelset somewhere. Trouble is, getting a 12x142mm with xd driver and 32 holes will be a challenge.@herzalot , do this. You'll save money and get a bombproof hub. I have both, the 240 and 350 and there is no performance difference that I can tell. A bonus for me is that the 350 is much quieter