Rad-ish hardtails

Mikie said:
I find this thread exciting and timing is perfection.
As you are aware, I just bought my first hardtail in 27 years.
I chose the Ibis DV9. Mainly because it doesn't have a washing machine head badge. :gotnothing:
Seriously
HA: 67.4 to 68.5
SA: 72 to 73
Chainstays: 439mm
And it will take a 2.6 tire on a 29er wheel.
I'm not a numbers guy but based off all I have read this is a versatile frame.
My initial goal was to toss on it a 140mm fork but have been advised against it.
I also plan to toss on it a 175 mm dropper most likely a Fox.

Would there be any reason to not go with a 140mm fork? Pros Cons?

View attachment 61299
Click to expand...


If the frame is compatible up to 140mm forks, I see no problem with it. Even more so, since you tend to run you suspension soft and rely on the lockouts.

does the front end wander a bit more on really steep climbs...perhaps. However when it gets that steep you are just as likely to get out of the saddle and pedal. It’s also no worse that the 150 on your Hightower.

makes the downs more fun with minimal penalty on the climbs.
 
Mikie said:
I find this thread exciting and timing is perfection.
As you are aware, I just bought my first hardtail in 27 years.
I chose the Ibis DV9. Mainly because it doesn't have a washing machine head badge. :gotnothing:
But Seriously! Because:
HA: 67.4 to 68.5
SA: 72 to 73
Chainstays: 439mm
And it will take a 2.6 tire on a 29er wheel.
I'm not a numbers guy but based off all I have read this is a versatile frame.
My initial goal was to toss on it a 140mm fork but have been advised against it.
I also plan to toss on it a 175 mm dropper most likely a Fox.

Would there be any reason to not go with a 140mm fork? Pros Cons?
This pic looks to be spec'ed with a 120mm fork...
View attachment 61299
Click to expand...
Cons: It would feel unbalanced. The rear has no MMs of travel, so that front end would be too squishy. Supported by my extensive hardtail expertise, I recommend not more than 120mm of fork travel with 34-36mm stanchions on a hardtail. That will help balance the bike’s character. Party in the front, business in the back, no pretending it can shred something it can’t.
 
DangerDirtyD said:
Cons: It would feel unbalanced. The rear has no MMs of travel, so that front end would be too squishy. Supported by my extensive hardtail expertise, I recommend not more than 120mm of fork travel with 34-36mm stanchions on a hardtail. That will help balance the bike’s character. Party in the front, business in the back, no pretending it can shred something it can’t.
Click to expand...


Based on old hardtail geometry....I’d agree. However newer hardtail with modern geometry actually feel quite balanced with long travel.
 
Mikie said:
I find this thread exciting and the timing is perfection.
As you are aware, I just bought my first hardtail in 27 years.
I chose the Ibis DV9. Mainly because it doesn't have a washing machine head badge. :gotnothing:
But Seriously! Because:
HA: 67.4 to 68.5
SA: 72 to 73
Chainstays: 439mm
And it will take a 2.6 tire on a 29er wheel (which I plan to run)
I'm not a numbers guy but based off all I have read this is a versatile frame.
My initial goal was to toss on it a 140mm fork but have been advised against it.
I also plan to toss on it a 175 mm dropper most likely a Fox.

Would there be any reason to not go with a 140mm fork? Pros Cons?
This pic looks to be spec'ed with a 120mm fork...
View attachment 61299
Click to expand...
I know the stock builds come with either a 100/32 fork or 120/34. Someone posted on the other forum that they were specifically advised by Ibis not to go over 120 because of the stress it would put on the head tube. Perhaps that’s just a bunch of CYA, but that’s what he was told.
 
mtnbikej said:
Based on old hardtail geometry....I’d agree. However newer hardtail with modern geometry actually feel quite balanced with long travel.
Click to expand...
Touché. My hardtail (actually mama’s) is circa 2009, but I added a fork with 51mm offset to make it cool.

The real truth, @Mikie , is that the best thing to do to a hardtail is slap on some slicks and a trunk rack/bag and use it as an urban battleship to Rubio’s and the grocery store.
1A5A0BD3-BFF5-4F21-AFD4-C498A9B053C0.jpeg
 
Thanks again for all the ideas and psyche, guys.

@Grego, by what little I know at the moment, I agree with your preference. Semi-custom ti at that price seems unbelievable.


FWIW, I ran my Pedalhead with a 140 Pike and it was dreamy. Frame is made for 120-140. The 120 was okay, too, just limited on the DH.
 
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buggravy said:
I know the stock builds come with either a 100/32 fork or 120/34. Someone posted on the other forum that they were specifically advised by Ibis not to go over 120 because of the stress it would put on the head tube. Perhaps that’s just a bunch of CYA, but that’s what he was told.
Click to expand...


I tend to go with CYA. I’ve been over forking my hardtails for years. Have no qualms putting 130mm fork on a frame made for 120mm Max.


Most frames are engineered for the fork at full extension. But we know they are rarely at that length. So out of the 20mm difference between a 120 and 140 fork, once you factor in the additional sag is minimal.
 
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Go with the longest it's rated for... Even at 120mm, that is a huge improvement over 100mm. Been there... You're going to feel like you have another inch of travel anyway with those beach balls that you call tires. I'd consider something that spins up a little faster than a 2.6 in the back. 2.4 Rekon...

And then... Ride it everywhere you would ride your other bike. Don't listen to hardtail advice from the guys who haven't ridden one since Bill Clinton was riding Monica around the Oval Office. They have progressed as much as full suspension bikes in the same time period. Watch J, watch Ross, watch mike... Close your eyes when I come up. :p

And... most importantly... Give yourself time to adjust. If I ride the e-bike for a couple weeks and then jump on the hardtail, the bad habits have already set in and it rides like a brick. Even the pavement in front of the house feels harsh. It takes me a day or so to get back in the groove and use the built-in body suspension to soak everything up. Start slow, Grasshopper. Eventually you might find you like floating instead of plowing.
 
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mtnbikej said:
I tend to go with CYA. I’ve been over forking my hardtails for years. Have no qualms putting 130mm fork on a frame made for 120mm Max.


Most frames are engineered for the fork at full extension. But we know they are rarely at they length. So out of the 20mm difference between a 120 and 140 fork, once you factor in the additional sag is minimal.
Click to expand...

Before the Fuse, I rode over-forked XC hardtails.
Helped with the steep steering angles

You're gonna have to break that "Santa Cruzin" style, where you ride through the chunk while seated :facepalm: Or else you'll be ripping through rear tires like @DangerDirtyD with someone else weed!

Slap a 140mm up front, and the longest dropper that fits, and...
Get some!
 
Mikie said:
I find this thread exciting and the timing is perfection.
As you are aware, I just bought my first hardtail in 27 years.
I chose the Ibis DV9. Mainly because it doesn't have a washing machine head badge. :gotnothing:
But Seriously! Because:
HA: 67.4 to 68.5
SA: 72 to 73
Chainstays: 439mm
And it will take a 2.6 tire on a 29er wheel (which I plan to run)
I'm not a numbers guy but based off all I have read this is a versatile frame.
My initial goal was to toss on it a 140mm fork but have been advised against it.
I also plan to toss on it a 175 mm dropper most likely a Fox.

Would there be any reason to not go with a 140mm fork? Pros Cons?
This pic looks to be spec'ed with a 120mm fork...
View attachment 61299
Click to expand...
I just reread this and am going to do some more keyboard quarterbacking. And again, I'm just regurgitating info, which may or may not be true but may be worthy of investigation prior to a purchase. I’d read somewhere about the DV9 seat tube not playing nice with long droppers. I vaguely remember someone asserting that 150 was the max on a large frame. The one I bought had a 150 installed, and in the pics the seat post was slammed all way into the tube. The shop owner who was 5’9” said he had to slam it to be able to ride it, and even then he barely fit on it with the dropper fully extended. I really wanted a Bike Yoke dropper, which meant 160 or 125, and he very strongly suggested I go 125, even at 5'11" with a 32" inseam. For how and where I envision riding that bike I think 125 will be perfectly sufficient.
 
buggravy said:
I just reread this and am going to do some more keyboard quarterbacking. And again, I'm just regurgitating info, which may or may not be true but may be worthy of investigation prior to a purchase. I’d read somewhere about the DV9 seat tube not playing nice with long droppers. I vaguely remember someone asserting that 150 was the max on a large frame. The one I bought had a 150 installed, and in the pics the seat post was slammed all way into the tube. The shop owner who was 5’9” said he had to slam it to be able to ride it, and even then he barely fit on it with the dropper fully extended. I really wanted a Bike Yoke dropper, which meant 160 or 125, and he very strongly suggested I go 125, even at 5'11" with a 32" inseam. For how and where I envision riding that bike I think 125 will be perfectly sufficient.
Click to expand...


https://www.ibiscycles.com/bikes/dv9#overview-dropper

Screenshot (164).png
Screenshot (165).png
 
Mikie said:
That is one big FN Eye Chart. What are you telling me? The max Dropper is 150mm?
Click to expand...


Here's how I read it.....based on a L frame:

Maximum insertion of dropper post is 230mm

This part is Dropper Brand Specific to Fox:
Measurement from center BB to center of saddle rail
150mm dropper
Min length: 692mm
Max length: 837mm

You will have to measure and see if you fall within these dimensions WITHOUT exceeding max insertion of 230mm.
 
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