BB height and pedal strikes?

All I can tell you is my Hightower has more pedal strike per mile than any other bike I have owned. I have increased ratchet capability, and I time more than ever my pedal strokes when I’m consciously aware of technical that can make contact. It’s those moments when you don’t see it coming that can bite yah. Something to be aware of when the conditions are right.
For me it was...
Weight slightly too far forward, a slightly arching slightly downward left turn, light in the Pedals with equal pressure, pulling up on the back side and pressure on the front at speed, inside peddle dropping to increase velocity, and right at Crank Arm 4:00 o’clock.... bam!
I’m going to call it the pole volting affect. Both wheels off the ground, rear end swinging wide, body leading the charge.
It would have been awesome if there wasn’t an FN tree in the way to catch my fall.
I would say you should have grave concerns for pedal strike, and really take the time to gain PS avoidance techniques as the lower and slacker is pretty popular right now.
Apparently I have not mastered mine.
I doubt anyone will ever completely master pedal strikes. I am in the same boat, I ride more cautiously and watch closely for what is ahead. :eek:

The pedal strike thing just slows us down, IMO, but that's not actually such a bad thing because it means that for the most part, we are concerned more for our safety than for our strava times through that pedal strikey section. :rolleyes:
 
Sorry to say but the lower BB does increase your chances of pedal strikes. It's science.
Actually, it's not science. If it was science it would be a repeatable test removing all other variables. Basic math says a lower BB equals more pedal strikes. But as you should be changing your technique to accommodate, it isn't repeatable. I know I choose different lines if I am on my CX bike vs my Enduro.
 
Like you said, it gets you when you’re unaware...I’m SUPER watchful since my crash, but I’ve had it happen a few times since then! PS is almost all I thought about when I rode at Skypark, it never did happen thank God!
How are ya doing Mikie??
Today is supposed to be the day of the beginning of recovery. I do feel a lot better. Looks like I’m going to need knee surgery as I think I retore my meniscus. That is an easy surgery so of little concern.
 
Today is supposed to be the day of the beginning of recovery. I do feel a lot better. Looks like I’m going to need knee surgery as I think I retore my meniscus. That is an easy surgery so of little concern.
Glad to hear that you are feeling better Mikie! The body's ability to heal is truly a miracle when you think about it. The man upstairs was watching out for you and he still is. Too many things fell into place after your crash to be just chance. Thoughts and prayers.
 
The bottom bracket height on my Troy is 13.3 inches and like others I have notice a lot of pedal strikes. Like Mikie, I try to be aware of what is in front of me and try keep the pedals level.

On my Kona, I put a 150mm fork on a frame that calls for a 120mm fork. So I essentially raised the BB and have not had any pedal strikes on it since I have built it up in October.
 
Glad to hear that you are feeling better Mikie! The body's ability to heal is truly a miracle when you think about it. The man upstairs was watching out for you and he still is. Too many things fell into place after your crash to be just chance. Thoughts and prayers.
Everybody here knows I’m a firm believer in the man upstairs, and you are right, there was way too much perfection in how the event unfolded. I’m thankful and praise God!
 
Glad to hear that you are feeling better Mikie! The body's ability to heal is truly a miracle when you think about it. The man upstairs was watching out for you and he still is. Too many things fell into place after your crash to be just chance. Thoughts and prayers.
Right on! I’ve had many crashes and close call where I KNEW it could have been much worse! I have the perfect riding friend ;):inlove:
 
The bottom bracket height on my Troy is 13.3 inches and like others I have notice a lot of pedal strikes. Like Mikie, I try to be aware of what is in front of me and try keep the pedals level.

On my Kona, I put a 150mm fork on a frame that calls for a 120mm fork. So I essentially raised the BB and have not had any pedal strikes on it since I have built it up in October.
I wonder if I can do similar to my SC 5010?!
 
I think about them on thin exposed trails, don't want to be hugging the inside and then drop a pedal a get ejected over the edge.

I also am conscious in root rocks etc where I can. There are a couple spots on my regular ride where I have a full rhythm for cleaning
 
Great news! Can you recommend a new 150 fork?
Pike or Fox 34. Standard fare. Both are good. Pike is a little burlier. I would say Marzocchi 350, because that was the best air fork I've ever ridden, but sadly, they don't exist anymore.

Anybody here wanna loan Sara a spare Pike 150 to try? I have a spare DVO Diamond, but it's 160 - and that would be way over-forking the SOLO (oops, I mean 5010).

PS - if your fork is currently 130, I would try 140mm first. The steering will get lighter, and you may not like going 20 mm.

PSS - I've been a fan of overforking bikes since my first Yeti 575. 5.75" travel in back, but came with 140mm in front. I went to a Fox 36, then a Marzocchi 55 - both at 160mm and the bike handled great. My Knolly Endorphin was 140 rear, 160 front. However, I am tall and can put a lot of downward pressure on my stem while climbing to keep the front end from wandering.
 
Pike or Fox 34. Standard fare. Both are good. Pike is a little burlier. I would say Marzocchi 350, because that was the best air fork I've ever ridden, but sadly, they don't exist anymore.

Anybody here wanna loan Sara a spare Pike 150 to try? I have a spare DVO Diamond, but it's 160 - and that would be way over-forking the SOLO (oops, I mean 5010).

PS - if your fork is currently 130, I would try 140mm first. The steering will get lighter, and you may not like going 20 mm.

PSS - I've been a fan of overforking bikes since my first Yeti 575. 5.75" travel in back, but came with 140mm in front. I went to a Fox 36, then a Marzocchi 55 - both at 160mm and the bike handled great. My Knolly Endorphin was 140 rear, 160 front. However, I am tall and can put a lot of downward pressure on my stem while climbing to keep the front end from wandering.
Good idea on a gradual bump up as I still feel a little clumsier climbing with this bike compared to my old bike. Maybe I can lock out the FS on longer climbs?
I’ll look at both of those forks now!
Thanks Chris.
 
Good idea on a gradual bump up as I still feel a little clumsier climbing with this bike compared to my old bike. Maybe I can lock out the FS on longer climbs?
I’ll look at both of those forks now!
Thanks Chris.
Sara I don’t know what fork is on your bike but a 10-20 mm increase can usually be achieved by just an air shaft change. It’s like a $35 part and takes a little know how to change. Call Fadi and find out.

I agree with @herzalot that a 20mm change may be a bit much.
 
Good idea on a gradual bump up as I still feel a little clumsier climbing with this bike compared to my old bike. Maybe I can lock out the FS on longer climbs?
I’ll look at both of those forks now!
Thanks Chris.
Locking out the fork for climbing is only an advantage on pavement, or out of the saddle sprints. A little sag on that fork will help it track the ground better and keep your head angle manageable. So not really an essential feature, if you ask me. And you didn't. But I chimed in anyway.
 
Locking out the fork for climbing is only an advantage on pavement, or out of the saddle sprints. A little sag on that fork will help it track the ground better and keep your head angle manageable. So not really an essential feature, if you ask me. And you didn't. But I chimed in anyway.
Chime away Chris, sometimes I feel like a newbie even though I’ve been riding for over 10 yrs..kind of embarrassing :oops:
 
Actually, it's not science. If it was science it would be a repeatable test removing all other variables. Basic math says a lower BB equals more pedal strikes. But as you should be changing your technique to accommodate, it isn't repeatable. I know I choose different lines if I am on my CX bike vs my Enduro.


A scientific theory is a well-substantiated explanation of some aspect of the natural world, based on a body of facts that have been repeatedly confirmed through observation and experiment. Such fact-supported theories are not "guesses" but reliable accounts of the real world...As in, a low bottom bracket will eventually result in a pedal strikes.

Nice to see us trying to get our Varaxis on... :Roflmao
 
@doublewide Bottom bracket height is very subjective and not measurable. It is an emotional, gut feeling and a very personal relationship between your perception of height and your philosophy of "what is ground?" It is what you perceive it to be, completely existential and not scientifically...

...wait, oh shoot, I think I am talking about clothing choices. My bad. Carry on.
 
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Sorry to say but the lower BB does increase your chances of pedal strikes. It's science.

With the low BB's and long travel on a DH bike a 165mm crank is required. My Reign has 170mm cranks. @scan you'll learn to ride the lower BB bike in no time! Until then, time your pedal strokes, keep em level through the rough stuff, or just jump over the rock gardens!

Actually, it's not science. If it was science it would be a repeatable test removing all other variables. Basic math says a lower BB equals more pedal strikes. But as you should be changing your technique to accommodate, it isn't repeatable. I know I choose different lines if I am on my CX bike vs my Enduro.

A scientific theory is a well-substantiated explanation of some aspect of the natural world, based on a body of facts that have been repeatedly confirmed through observation and experiment. Such fact-supported theories are not "guesses" but reliable accounts of the real world...As in, a low bottom bracket will eventually result in a pedal strikes.

Nice to see us trying to get our Varaxis on... :Roflmao
Not bashing anyone here but I think we are just using the wrong terminology...
A Theory is just that, a theory. Adding the word “Scientific” in front of it does not make it more valid. A theory is nothing more than a guess. A scientific theory is nothing more that a scientific guess based on science that “potentially” could lead to a conclusion.

I don’t think that phrase relates to the subject. I “think” what you were trying to say was “Mathematically” a Lower bottom bracket will result in a higher probability of Pedal Strike. Which I totally agree with.

@mountaingirl sara , I would be cautious in changing the geometry of your bike. As much as I love my Hightower and wish the bottom bracket was higher... it is what it is. I’m not going to blame my crash for example on the geometry of my new bike. I’m going to learn from it, adapt, and then go hammer differently.

Like a lot of guys here have stated, it’s one of those things you now take in to account for and develop ride skills around.

When I started riding the Hightower, I was locking out my rear shock to reduce the fluffy climbing aspect (which raised my B.B. height due to less sag), then I got used to the fluff, and now I’m back to locking it out. That will help with a lower B.B. on the climbs. I try to keep the fork light and drive through the rear wheel. I agree with @herzalot that locking your fork is great for road climbs, and I do lock mine out on road climbs.

I say, grow with the bikes geometry. Adjust saddle position and handlebar height and distance to grab more climbing capability.

I was watching Cathy climb the other day and realized I had her seat waaaayy too far back. She was pedaling from behind. After moving it forward she said it made all the difference! She didn’t know what she didn’t know. She relies on me to know this stuff.

I hope this helps!
 
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Not bashing anyone here but I think we are just using the wrong terminology...
A Theory is just that, a theory. Adding the word “Scientific” in front of it does not make it more valid. A theory is nothing more than a guess. A scientific theory is nothing more that a scientific guess based on science that “potentially” could lead to a conclusion.

I don’t think that phrase relates to the subject. I “think” what you were trying to say was “Mathematically” a Lower bottom bracket will result in a higher probability of Pedal Strike. Which I totally agree with.

@mountaingirl sara , I would be cautious in changing the geometry of your bike. As much as I love my Hightower and wish the bottom bracket was higher... it is what it is. I’m not going to blame my crash for example on the geometry of my new bike. I’m going to learn from it, adapt, and then go hammer differently.

Like a lot of guys here have stated, it’s one of those things you now take in to account for and develop ride skills around.

When I started riding the Hightower, I was locking out my rear shock to reduce the fluffy climbing aspect (which raised my B.B. height due to less sag), then I got used to the fluff, and now I’m back to locking it out. That will help with a lower B.B. on the climbs. I try to keep the fork light and drive through the rear wheel. I agree with @herzalot that locking your fork is great for road climbs, and I do lock mine out on road climbs.

I say, grow with the bikes geometry. Adjust saddle position and handlebar height and distance to grab more climbing capability.

I was watching Cathy climb the other day and realized I had her seat waaaayy too far back. She was pedaling from behind. After moving it forward she said it made all the difference! She didn’t know what she didn’t know. She relies on me to know this stuff.

I hope this helps!
4:30am, I’m guessing you couldn’t sleep?
Wonderful deduction, my dear Watson! You have a talant for putting thoughts to paper.
I still may try more travel on the front end, but will move up slowly. And a good bike fitting would be wise as well.:thumbsup:
Hope you’re feeling better today Mikie:)
 
Funny the Low Bottom brackets are taking a beatin because of pedal strikes but nobody's complaining about them when they're railing through a turn or railing through a turn on a steep downhill and feeling connected and low not high and ready to be a ejected OTB.
 
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