Tire width/rim width

  • Thread starter Thread starter dustyyoungblood
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Do you really want width? When I get a wider tire, I look for increased overall circumference and the ability to run lower pressures. Bigger wheel = better roll-over. Wider tire = ?? More fun to crush overgrowth? Does having the sidewalls wider apart do anything besides expose them to damage? Compel you to roll over rocks, instead of attempting to roll between gaps of them?

I really wonder... the best I can think of is possibly a reshaped tire contact patch that's wider, rather than longer? In what cases does that help?

Do I want width? Oh man do I have to answer that honestly?

In this particular case, where I wanted to leave the 2.4 Onza on the rear, yes I wanted width of equal or greater at the side knobs F/R. That's why I shared all the details here, the result of my choice was not exactly what I wanted. Splitting hairs yes, will I feel it on the trail.l? Most likely not, but at high speed corners on hardpack I will feel it. It's going to mess up my cornering a little. And the difference in air volume is going to mess me up also, especially given my mixed wheel size. 29/27.5

As for in general tire shopping is width the most important determining factor ? No way. Sometimes a 2" small block 8 is the Best tire for a particular day. But If Traction is the ultimate goal for the tire choice, specifically straight line loose chutes to unstable corners(as was part of my choice factor) then I don't know how width is not a factor. If it does not come into play then we would all use very narrow full round profile tires.

Also, what I should really be measuring is the contact patch width when loaded up in a corner. Perhaps the DHR will be wider then the Onza when flattened out. But that's a much harder measurement to take.
 
Details please
http://blistergearreview.com/gear-reviews/maxxis-minion-dhr2/4

Can be as simple as cutting a sipe into the wide center knobs, in line with outside edge of the narrower center knobs.

Do I want width? Oh man do I have to answer that honestly?

In this particular case, where I wanted to leave the 2.4 Onza on the rear, yes I wanted width of equal or greater at the side knobs F/R. That's why I shared all the details here, the result of my choice was not exactly what I wanted. Splitting hairs yes, will I feel it on the trail.l? Most likely not, but at high speed corners on hardpack I will feel it. It's going to mess up my cornering a little. And the difference in air volume is going to mess me up also, especially given my mixed wheel size. 29/27.5

As for in general tire shopping is width the most important determining factor ? No way. Sometimes a 2" small block 8 is the Best tire for a particular day. But If Traction is the ultimate goal for the tire choice, specifically straight line loose chutes to unstable corners(as was part of my choice factor) then I don't know how width is not a factor. If it does not come into play then we would all use very narrow full round profile tires.

Also, what I should really be measuring is the contact patch width when loaded up in a corner. Perhaps the DHR will be wider then the Onza when flattened out. But that's a much harder measurement to take.

In a nutshell, I'm just trying point out that you're going after something in a round about way. You are sort of relating traction to width, and I'm saying that relation isn't very strong nor very direct. There are more direct factors that give you what you want.

For instance, lower air pressures more directly improves the reliability of traction. You don't have to increase air volume, say from wider tires or wider rims, to allow lower air pressure. I provided an example: the Cush Core system. I'm pretty sold on it. I experienced first hand how it damps out vibration from blown out bike park trails, preventing arm pump and increasing my control. I've also hit some rather sharp rocks with it at a decent speed, without worry about damage to my tire or rim. I've let the pressure in my 2.3 DHR2 drop below 15 psi, and found it more than enough (rider weight - 150 lbs).
 
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I think you're hinting at an interview I saw with Maxxis engineers. The advice was to pump to maximum recommended pressure and let it sit for 24 hours to get the maximum possible tire width.

Does anyone here do that? Measurable difference?
I dont pump to max psi, but with a brand new tire, I will let it sit at 40psi over night. Most tires grow about 1-2mm in width and then some more after a break-in ride.
 
I dont pump to max psi, but with a brand new tire, I will let it sit at 40psi over night. Most tires grow about 1-2mm in width and then some more after a break-in ride.

Yep, I always pump to 40psi and let it sit at least overnight before I ride. Aside from the tire having time to "grow" it also lets you know if it's sealed up and mounted well.
 
I dont pump to max psi, but with a brand new tire, I will let it sit at 40psi over night. Most tires grow about 1-2mm in width and then some more after a break-in ride.
Yep, I always pump to 40psi and let it sit at least overnight before I ride. Aside from the tire having time to "grow" it also lets you know if it's sealed up and mounted well.


With most tubeless tires......40 psi is about max.
 
When in doubt, consult the rim manufacturer:

https://www.eastoncycling.com/media/Easton Rim pressure.pdf

Most manufacturers tend to be a bit conservative, but it's not a great idea to exceed it by much. At least that has been my personal anecdotal experience with a sample size of one.

X717_Fail_01.jpg
 
Just got back Santa Cruz. The 29 x 2.4 DHR II up front performed exactly how I needed it to. There were some rather steep chutes of tree root stair steps and drops between powdery dry braking zones and I kept thinking a front wheel skid to OTB was eminent. But no problem I just monster trucked right through it all heart racing. I ran it between 20-25psi, and probably would go 18 or lower without issue if I ever needed to.
 
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