UPSed
iMTB Hooligan
What size wheels do you have? I have a set of Schwalbe Nobby Nics you're more than welcome to. 29x2.35.Aw man. I'm checking out tubeless!
What size wheels do you have? I have a set of Schwalbe Nobby Nics you're more than welcome to. 29x2.35.Aw man. I'm checking out tubeless!
Aw man. I'm checking out tubeless!
What size wheels do you have? I have a set of Schwalbe Nobby Nics you're more than welcome to. 29x2.35.
Thanks Ed! I'll pm you, I'm not exactly sure of the wheel size, the tire on it now is a 29x2.25. You guys are too generous! I'm glad you asked about the size. I thought there were 29s on the bike. When I picked up that tube at the bike store, I told the sales guy I was there for a tube for my bike. He grabs a 27.5. I tell him I think it's a 29. We go and look at a Rock Spring there. It was a s. with 27.5s I told him no I have a M/L I think it has 29s on it. I hadn't actually looked at the tire, I only eyeballed it, so I let him convince me to buy the wrong tube! I'm super lucky to have you guys, cause this guy sure isn't helping :/
Cool. I'm guessing the tires you have on there are lower end Schwalbes. The ones I have should be a little easier to set up tubeless.Thanks Ed! I'll pm you, I'm not exactly sure of the wheel size, the tire on it now is a 29x2.25. You guys are too generous! I'm glad you asked about the size. I thought there were 29s on the bike. When I picked up that tube at the bike store, I told the sales guy I was there for a tube for my bike. He grabs a 27.5. I tell him I think it's a 29. We go and look at a Rock Spring there. It was a s. with 27.5s I told him no I have a M/L I think it has 29s on it. I hadn't actually looked at the tire, I only eyeballed it, so I let him convince me to buy the wrong tube! I'm super lucky to have you guys, cause this guy sure isn't helping :/
Thanks Ed! I'll pm you, I'm not exactly sure of the wheel size, the tire on it now is a 29x2.25. You guys are too generous! I'm glad you asked about the size. I thought there were 29s on the bike. When I picked up that tube at the bike store, I told the sales guy I was there for a tube for my bike. He grabs a 27.5. I tell him I think it's a 29. We go and look at a Rock Spring there. It was a s. with 27.5s I told him no I have a M/L I think it has 29s on it. I hadn't actually looked at the tire, I only eyeballed it, so I let him convince me to buy the wrong tube! I'm super lucky to have you guys, cause this guy sure isn't helping :/
Somewhere on this site is a thread about tubeless setup... And a guide written by @Mikie . It's the one I followed when I did it...
A 27.5 tube will work in a 29er. Just sayin'
May not be preferred, but it works fine.
Still, the guy was an idiot for selling you the wrong size tube when you bought the bike from them.
EDIT: Didn't read Steve's post first. That'll learn me...
Steps: This is assuming you have a Tubless Ready rim, a Tubeless Ready tire, an independant valve stem, and Stans Sealant, and I use Gorilla tape.
Don't learn the hard way like I did about low air pressure. I run 30 psi minimum until I know I am not losing air pressure.
- Remove tire
- Remove tube.
- Remove rim tape (if you use the traditional cloth tape)
- Apply new rim tape. Personally, I use gorilla tape from Home Depot. This is to cover and realtively seal the spoke nipples, I do two wraps.
- Cut hole for independant valve stem and install it. This a valve stem that is a standalone with no tube. They have a larger base than the rim hole that seals against the inside of the rim valve hole when you tighten down the nut.
- Install Tubeless Ready Tire on Tubless Ready Rim leaving a small section uninstalled to drop two of the Stans Cups of sealant in the tire at the 6 O'clock position.
- Move uninstalled section to 12 O'Clock position and finish tire install.
- Easiest to use air compressor to initially pump up tire enough to set tire beads. I often can use a floor pump.
- Once beads have popped, floor pump to final pressure.
- Hold wheel at 9 O'Clock and 3 O'Clock position like your steering a car and slosh sealant back and forth up on to both rim edges where tire contacts rim. Rotate wheel as you slosh sealant. Make full rotation. I usually lay wheel on plastic trash can to let sealant settle in mate point of tire and rim.
- Then I install the wheel back on the bike. Check the tire pressure to make sure you are not losing pressure and have a good seal.
Maintenance: Once a month pull wheel and listen to slosh to make sure you have plenty of sealant. Every other month pull valve core and add a small bottle of sealant (no breaking the tire bead), and repump up tire...
Sounds like a hassle at first, but you will never go back to tubes... imho...
Install Tubeless Ready Tire on Tubeless Ready Rim leaving a small section uninstalled to drop two of the Stans Cups of sealant in the tire at the 6 O'.
Wow, step by step instructions! I'm going to be up all night putting this all together lol! Thank you @Mikie
I do it that way too now. I install the tire complete and add the Stan’s through the pulled valve stem core. But I still start with two bottles per tire. For me it’s collarbone insurance...2 cups of sealant? I've been getting away with murder. I mount the tire completely, pull the valve core, add one small bottle of sealant (2 oz?) and call it good. Huh...
Does more sealant stop catastrophic flats?I do it that way too now. I install the tire complete and add the Stan’s through the pulled valve stem core. But I still start with two bottles per tire. For me it’s collarbone insurance...
Does more sealant stop catastrophic flats?
I do it that way too now. I install the tire complete and add the Stan’s through the pulled valve stem core. But I still start with two bottles per tire. For me it’s collarbone insurance...
No - I'm just saying that the kind of flats that would cause one to go OTB and break a collarbone has nothing to do with the amount of sealant in your tire.There are no guarantees. But I use 3-4 oz of Stans in my tires, and have little trouble with them. Unless a stupid plant gets froggy.
No - I'm just saying that the kind of flats that would cause one to go OTB and break a collarbone has nothing to do with the amount of sealant in your tire.
Doesn't this make my tire heavier though?
Skimping on Stans is a bad idea when you ride with @Mikie...2 cups of sealant? I've been getting away with murder. I mount the tire completely, pump it up dry. Seat the bead. Let out the air. Pull the valve core, add one small bottle of sealant (2 oz?) and call it good. Huh...
Interesting. Like I said, I think I've been getting away with something. I'll put more in tomorrow when I replace my rear tire. Especially since the Maxxis Minions do tend to weep a little. I do add sealant about once every two months or so. Not to jinx myself, but I haven't had a flat since I went tubeless in February 2016. Of course, one is more likely to get a flat if one rides one's bike.Initial set up seems to use up more than 2 oz... the first two go towards just coating the tire, leaving nothing to slosh around. So the next two are the ones that stay as fluid in the cavity. YMMV.
And for me the other point of tubeless is that when I get slightly off trail and pick up 37 goathead thorns I need not worry. Leave em in or pluck em and spin the tire a few times to seal it and keep riding...Compared to a tube, no. But the point of tubeless is not weight savings; it's more about running lower tire pressure without having to worry as much about pinch flats. it also improves the tire's gription (there's a technical term for ya), and rolling resistance is better also.
A 29er tube runs about 200 grams. 2 oz of sealant is 57 grams.
To me, that is THE reason to ride tubeless. But the other benefits are nice too, now that the tubeless ready tires have replaced the UST heavy-ass, non-compliant tires of the early tubeless days.And for me the other point of tubeless is that when I get slightly off trail and pick up 37 goathead thorns I need not worry. Leave en in or pluck em and spin the tire a few times to seal it and keep riding...