Guerilla Gravity

“Best served on wide open trails. Doesn’t like to change direction quickly”
That's what a lot of testers said about the Megatower. That must be why I crashed - I was trying to change direction!!!

Yes - a 51.7" long bike (XL) that weighs a ton and has huge gyroscopic devices on either end probably won't be described as "nimble, agile and quick." Especially with 17.7" chainstays and a 63.7° head angle.

Bikes of this size are probably better suited for big dudes. I can't imagine trying to adapt to beasts of this size if you are under 6'0" tall. I wonder how @Sidewalk manhandles his Enduro with similar numbers. Of course, he's a better rider than I.
 
https://ridegg.us17.list-manage.com...51af7942e25b3bb723&id=4e67359177&e=af4142b174
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They have to do something to drop 2.5-3lbs off the race version. So trim the dropper it is! And a 120 fork.

Making a lighter frame next time might help.
Just regurgitating anecdotal ramblings here, but there has been a bit of clamor for a lighter carbon layup for exactly this type of bike. Word is that it will likely happen, but not until the carbon rear triangle becomes a thing. Guessing the latter will be within the next year or so.
 
The discussion over in the Revel thread got my bike nerd wheels spinning, and this question may be more contextual here. With all other things being equal, as they mostly are with GG (suspension platform, front triangle, etc.) what is going to make a 120/120 Trail Pistol SL faster/more efficient (theoretically) than, say, my 160/145 Smash. Is it mostly STA? Weight? Total weight is about 3.5 lbs different, but only a couple ounces of that on each end is rotating mass. Does a short travel bike give up less of its travel (wasted energy) climbing? The move from a Pistola to Smash was a much smaller jump, but recall it FEELING slightly slower going up, but the Strava numbers said otherwise. I certainly feel a difference pedaling my DV9 vs. my Smash, but once you throw movement into the back of the bike, what is it that makes these short travel bikes faster (again, theoretically).

*disclaimer: This is not a purchase weighing question. Just geeking out.
 
The discussion over in the Revel thread got my bike nerd wheels spinning, and this question may be more contextual here. With all other things being equal, as they mostly are with GG (suspension platform, front triangle, etc.) what is going to make a 120/120 Trail Pistol SL faster/more efficient (theoretically) than, say, my 160/145 Smash. Is it mostly STA? Weight? Total weight is about 3.5 lbs different, but only a couple ounces of that on each end is rotating mass. Does a short travel bike give up less of its travel (wasted energy) climbing? The move from a Pistola to Smash was a much smaller jump, but recall it FEELING slightly slower going up, but the Strava numbers said otherwise. I certainly feel a difference pedaling my DV9 vs. my Smash, but once you throw movement into the back of the bike, what is it that makes these short travel bikes faster (again, theoretically).

*disclaimer: This is not a purchase weighing question. Just geeking out.


Theoretically a short travel bike will be more efficient while pedaling. Less sag, less monkey motion. think about it.....25% of 120mm vs 25% of 160mm.

Generally a bike with 160mm of travel is gonna be heavier as it’s built with more durable parts(however this line is being blurred more and more these days).

Geometry does play a little bit of a roll. While most trail bikes have gone quite long/low/slack...XC race rigs are quite the opposite, though again they are starting to follow that trend to a point.
 
The Squiggle Bug: Guerrilla Gravity Smash is getting dialed. The bike started off 34 lbs, 5 oz. First thing’s first, thicker coil for my tubbies went from 350 to 600 (bike got over 35lbs) down to 500 (sweet spot), replace SRAM Code R brakes with Shimano Saint, and toss the skinny GG saddle with a fancy Serfas Ghost Carbon saddle that I realized isn’t worth the risk of breaking a delicate rail on an All Mountain Bike. Current Saddle is a Bontrager Affinity Elite 270x148mm (34 lbs, 12oz). Next was experimenting with a Super Alloy Racing coil (https://superalloyracing.com/), which dropped a noticeable 7 oz from the bike, and replacing the aluminum RF Turbine R bars with RF Next R carbon...I maintained the 780mm width but lowered the handlebar rise from 20 to 10mm. I learned on Cannel the stack was too low with the lower bars because my arms/hands were getting tired, so I had to pull over and raise the stack one spacer. Cockpit is dialed now with the brake levers 175mm in from edge and 61 degrees from horizontal.

The bike is a freight train both up and down, meaning climbing sucks if the legs don’t have power, but WOAH BOY when she points down hill! The bike rails with no noticeable flex in the frame. Crouching low and over the cockpit in conjunction with the 66 degree head angle, leaning into every turn head and shoulders first, outside foot slammed down, and elbows flared puts the tires to the test, and the Minion DHF 2.5 WT/Minion DHR II 2.4 WT on 30mm ID rims are the real deal. I expect I can get away with a less aggressive rear tire (e.g., Bontrager SE4 or even XR4), but that’ll have to wait for the DHR to concede. There’s no giving up the DHF up front. The RockShox Lyrik 150mm fork is nice, but at 93 psi, I seem to leave the last 10mm of travel on the table. Any less air pressure, and I get brake dive. I may remove a token and keep charging.

Riding the Squiggle Bug intensifies my workout per mile, and I feel great after each ride (the kind of feeling you get after 50 miles and 7,700’ of gain). Every ride on the Bug is prep for Da Sauce, which will see the Rumblefish in action to chase the Chicken Nuggets.

Current weight is 33lbs 15oz. There’s no sense in attacking the uphill berms with this set-up. Punchy climbs can be had in moderation, but I need opportunity to sit and spin for recovery, which some trails simply do not allow.

My last two rides (Cannell and Marshall Cyn) I notice the thru axle bolt on the rear wheel comes loose and the rear caliper shifts so that one of the pads rubs on the rotor. I’ll try adding loctite to the threads and torquing the axle bolt closer to the 16nM maximum recommendation and keep charging.
@buggravy I noticed today for the first time that the RaceFace Turbine crank arms on the SquigleBug are 170mm long. Every other MTB I own has 175mm length cranks, but I didn't notice the difference here. This helps explain why I am not getting pedal strikes. I conclude the shorter crank arms also require the saddle height to be 5 mm higher to allow for proper leg extension on the down [pedal] stroke. Are all the crank arm lengths 170mm for all of your MTB bikes?
 
@buggravy I noticed today for the first time that the RaceFace Turbine crank arms on the SquigleBug are 170mm long. Every other MTB I own has 175mm length cranks, but I didn't notice the difference here. This helps explain why I am not getting pedal strikes. I conclude the shorter crank arms also require the saddle height to be 5 mm higher to allow for proper leg extension on the down [pedal] stroke. Are all the crank arm lengths 170mm for all of your MTB bikes?
My Smash has 170s, and the Spur has 175s. Coincidentally I just ordered 170s for the Spur today.
 
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