I had to match my gloves . . . Mojo HD3

herzalot

iMTB Hooligan
I've been looking and looking for a bike to match my favorite Dakine gloves. My bike is close, but it has no red. So I found this one today:



OK, actually, I was taking my bike in to have the fork serviced (it's been 48 rides since last service). As I was milling about BikeCo, a fresh load of Demo HD3s was delivered, including this beautiful XL. What can I do? I have the day off. Wife and kid aren't home. Sure I am tired from my morning ride, and the thought of getting back into my sweaty shorts is not very appealing, but how often will I get this chance? Off I went to ride the exact same trails I just rode on my Knolly.

I believe this is the $10,000 version. CCDBa Inline, Fox 36 extra blingy bling, Carbon 741 wide rims, XTR 1x11 drivetrain (30t x 11-40), XT Trail Brakes, Maxxis Minion DHf tires (front and rear). KS LEV internally routed post. Electric dog polisher. Kitchen sink. Etc.

Short story - yes this is a better bike than mine. $6000 better? No way. It descends about the same (although I still think my fork is better), but it climbs much better on relatively smooth surfaces. That's to be expected since it's 4lbs lighter and DW Link.

Long story. I dropped 5-Oaks first, climbed Cholla, then dropped Rock-It. My legs were toast before I started. Bottom line - The harder you flog the Ibis, the better it responded. It definitely feels like a race bike. One of the things that attracted me to my Knolly was its lateral stiffness and side-to-side quickness (considering its nearly 4' long wheelbase - 46 3/4"). the Ibis was quicker in the turns. I assumed it had a significantly shorter wheelbase - nope - 1mm shorter than my Knolly. Was it the wide rims? Maybe. Hard to tell. I did have a huge grin on my face as I pounded and twisted down my favorite equipment test track Rock-It.

This Fox 36 was far superior to the PoC 2011 I had, but it still refused to use more than 120mm of the 160mm travel, despite me dropping the air from the recommended 85psi to 70 (I weigh 210). It was pretty plush, and didn't dive - but I am not sure what it would take to get it to use most of its travel. Knucklebuster knows all about this.

The DB Inline was primo! Props to Zach for nailing the setup. Perfect psi, rebound, LSC and HSC. Used all the travel, but never felt it. It does give my Avalanched Fox CTD a run for its money - very similar feel and philosophy. I never used the climb switch - the DW Link doesn't need it.

This was my first 1x11 and I hated it. It shifted great, but 30x40 was a little too tall for my tired legs, and I spun out of 30x11 long before I was ready to stop pedaling and coast. I'll take my 2x10 anyday for top end speed and low end options. Good thing the Ibis was so light and the DW Link so efficient - I made it up Cholla, but it hurt. I almost endoed uphill on Rock-It when I went for my usual "up and over" route on the short climb that's halfway down the trail. Somehow I shifted into that 30x40 before hitting the 2' high rock and when I went to pedal, had no resistance and flung forward like my chain had snapped. I typically do that move in my 36 chainring and my 32 or 28t rear. Pilot error - can't blame that on equipment. The HD3 will allow a front derailleur for those who are brave enough to buck the trend.

Final thought - Having never ridden a DW link bike beyond a parking lot, I was skeptical that it would be plush when the going got rowdy. It just feels so firm. Well, it opened up as designed and really did allow the rear to track well. Not better than my Knolly, but not worse.

So the HD3 was on my short list, and I wouldn't mind owning one. It didn't wow me in the short time I rode it, but I did have a really stupid grin on my face and I think I shouted out loud while galloping down Rock-It. Great bike - but they all are these days. I'll give myself 'til summer 2016 to find my next bike.

Next up - Pivot Mach 6, Yeti SB6, Norco Range and maybe Intense Tracer 27.5c. I want to try the Knolly Warden too of course, but I don't think I would buy one until it's made of plastic like the other bikes. It's hard to turn down 2-3 lbs of weight reduction while adding torsional stiffness and vibration absorption.

IBIS1.jpg
 
Re: I had to match my gloves...

Thanks for the review. Comments/thoughts on the 27.5 vs. the 26 you're used to?

Amazing how close so many bikes look on paper these days (geo specs) and how differently they can ride.

And the 36, I took the volume spacer out and think I got it about right on PSI to get full travel on hard hits. Does take some messing with to get it set tho.
 
Re: I had to match my gloves...

Good review, you hit a lot of good points. Better than bike mag reviews.
I have the 1x11, and changed from a 32/42 to 30/42.
And you are correct, I spin out often before I'm done pedaling for speed.
Sounds to me like it was close to a good fit for you. Have fun shopping around, it's almost as fun as buying the bike!


You buy thoses gloves just for the ride? So glad the new bike didn't interfere with your fashion sense. 8-)
 
Re: I had to match my gloves...

Danimal said:
You buy those gloves just for the ride? So glad the new bike didn't interfere with your fashion sense. 8-)

I am not that shallow. I bought those gloves in Vail last summer. I have been searching for a bike to match them ever since.
 
Re: I had to match my gloves...

knucklebuster said:
Thanks for the review. Comments/thoughts on the 27.5 vs. the 26 you're used to?

Not much noticeable in such a short ride. Not like a 29er. I ran up all of the rocky parts of Cholla and it seemed like it stalled a little less than a 26er - could be my imagination, tired legs or higher gear too. I didn't notice anything on the downs relative to tire size. I went fast - I went straight - I smiled a lot, same as on my 26er, but pastelier...
 
You're fortunate to have nabbed an HD3 demo. I'd like to try one just to see how it compares to my Mach 6.

Any thoughts on those wide rims? I've got to demo a set one of these days just to see if the hype is justified.

When I demo a bike in OC, Cholla to Rockit is my typical test route. The loop has a lot of variety in a short distance. Cholla has the steep up, switchbacks, and uphill rock pops. Rockit has some flowy twisty stuff and filling rattling rock gardens. If I have time I try to add Mathis (typical long fireroad grind) and then drop Car Wreck to get the really steep downhill stuff.
 
SoCal_Rider said:
When I demo a bike in OC, Cholla to Rockit is my typical test route. The loop has a lot of variety in a short distance. Cholla has the steep up, switchbacks, and uphill rock pops. Rockit has some flowy twisty stuff and filling rattling rock gardens. If I have time I try to add Mathis (typical long fireroad grind) and then drop Car Wreck to get the really steep downhill stuff.

Good route - especially if you can add Mathis and Car Wreck! And yes, what I like about Rock-It as a test track is the foot-deep holes in rapid succession, followed by the little up and over rocky scramble and then the quick twisty turnys right after that. You can test equipment on steeper, tougher trails, but it doesn't put the suspension through its paces like a fast run down Rock-It does. :thumbup:

I would love to try your Mach 6! Too bad it's not XL... Well, too bad for me, not too bad for you! :wave:
 
What do you look for when testing rear shock performance? My DB Inline uses full travel on relatively tame stuff, but doing nothing but adding 10psi more made it feel more chattery to the point that my feel are bouncing around on the pedals if I try to go faster. Well, I guess my feet did bounce around a bit on the 2 rides before I added pressure, but I guess it just made it more noticeable. It's also bouncing and skipping off of stuff, and isn't as good with traction on the climbs. Gonna back off on the LSC and LSR. Guess the base tune for the E29 was meant for a heavier rider. I should just do a ride to get it better tuned I guess, as I've only had it for a week.

My Pike has a similar issue with not getting full travel. Managed to get it working better by creating sort of a negative spring by letting all the pressure out of the lowers when compressed, but that doesn't last very long and probably leads to dirt getting sucked in. Good thing it's pretty easy to service the Pike and my 1L bottle of 0W-30 oil isn't running out any time soon considering it only uses 5 and 15 mL of bath in the legs, and same with my 16oz tub of Slick Honey. Can't put Float Fluid/redrum in the air spring, since Solo Air depends the piston passing by a dimple to charge the negative air spring, and the fluid will prevent that, probably leaking down too; last thing I want to do is reduce the volume when I can't even use full travel. That 36 could be the solution to my Pike problem at this rate.
 
Everyone I have ridden with that either owns or demo'ed an HD3 either looked uncomfortable or felt uncomfortable. The cockpit gives the illusion that the top tube is too short giving the impression and the appearance the rider is too far forward.
I know you are a 6 footer and some change, what size bike did you ride?

Did you get that feeling or impression?
 
Varaxis said:
What do you look for when testing rear shock performance?

That 36 could be the solution to my Pike problem at this rate.

1.) I look for mostly high-speed attributes - suppleness off the top - trail chatter, braking bumps, foot deep holes at speed, etc - but I also look at rebound characteristics - such as the feeling of getting bucked on a landing or g-out. I also pay attention to the ramp up at the end. I don't want to feel it. If it's a trailbike shock, I also look for the quality of its climb mode - since my bike has no mechanical platform built in (DW link, VPP, Maestro and even single pivots do have a mechanical stiffening when pedaling - as you know).

2.) No, but the Marzocchi 350, DVO Diamond or even Manitou Mattoc could be... I don't think the 36 is easier to dial in than the Pike, and I've witnessed the opposite. I've almost never heard anyone complain about the suppleness of their Pike, or their ability to get full travel.
 
Mikie said:
Everyone I have ridden with that either owns or demo'ed an HD3 either looked uncomfortable or felt uncomfortable. The cockpit gives the illusion that the top tube is too short giving the impression and the appearance the rider is too far forward.
I know you are a 6 footer and some change, what size bike did you ride?

Did you get that feeling or impression?

The cockpit was shorter than my Knolly for sure. Ibis claims it's a 25.25 inch effective top tube, but I measured in a straight line (parallel to the ground) from the middle of the seat post to the center of the stem cap and came up with about 24.25. If I measure upward to where the saddle is, I got about 25.

I got used to the cockpit after about 30 minutes. Wider bars and a 70mm stem would make it about perfect for me. I ride with a very forward style anyway, with my hands about 3-4" lower than the top of the saddle. I feel that most MtBers ride far too upright, and often too far back. You want your chest low and elbows out when railing turns and charging the terrain.

In the photo of the HD3, notice that the saddle looks like it's pointed down a lot. It was pointed down a little (which I do not care for - but didn't take the time to correct). Note that the bike is pictured with the rear wheel slightly higher than the front, making the geometry look steeper and the cockpit appear tighter than it really was.
 
Pretty awesome! I got off at 3 yesterday and we could have ridden together!

I chuckled a bit when I read your comments about the 1x11, haha. I still need to grow into mine. I think the only time I am ever going too fast and can't pedal to get more speed is on the road after the luge. Should make you better at carrying momentum? :)

That's a pretty color! Hope you were flying down the hill in case anyone saw you!

thanks for the review! Like you said - there are just too many good bikes out there and you can't really go wrong. I guess it all comes down to the most important thing in riding.

Fashion! Which bike looks the best. (i lose... all black everything looks cheap IMO, haha)
 
Ahhh, one of the trends in the current crop of bikes is the all black or gray on black look. Some even go so far as to call it the "murdered out" look. Rock Shox may have sold more Pikes simply because of the black stanchions. I can't even tell the difference between bikes and can't read brand names on bikes on the backs of cars. I have nearly crashed trying!

So you sir, are on trend! (@BL)

Unlike my shorts, I like my bikes to be colorful, and the brand name to be proudly visible. Maybe not quite to the extent of the baby blue and magenta that Santa Cruz has recently offered... The Ibis pictured above is dangerously close to that scheme, but the red and black steers away from the fluorescent or the pastel. Whew!
 
Great review, thanks! I really loved my old HD so great to hear that the improvements (longer top tube and Inline) seem to be all pretty positive. It definitely LOOKS longer than previous HD iterations…

You have me sold on the CC Inline! Looks like a possible solution to plushness issues and 40% sag needed to reach full travel on my Fox.

On the 1x11, Im still not sold on mine but with a 30-42 it is at least rideable. Props to you on making those climbs with the 30-40.
 
Bruinbiker SPEAKS! :clap:
welcome to the imtbtrails family brothah! ibis makes some suh-weet bikes and this one is on my radar as well!
 
Mikie said:
Bruinbiker SPEAKS! :clap:
welcome to the imtbtrails family brothah! ibis makes some suh-weet bikes and this one is on my radar as well!

Uhhhhh, Bruinbiker has a Team Turquoise Yeti SB5c. Phenomenal steed. Post a picture BB. If you don't, I will!

Too late - I'm not depriving our viewers of your bike any longer...



Hey Todd, before you ditch the Fox for a CCDBa-il-cs, contact Craig at Avalanche to see if he has some magic for the SB5c application. Or perhaps you are talking about the shock on your Ibis (or other bike).

Todd's Yeti.jpg
 
I am picking up that bike tomorrow. I have a pike on my tracer and had to remove the spacer that came with it and good to go. Very plush, maybe to plush. On really steep rocky stuff I turn the the comp one click to the rt. I put a 2015 fox 36 on my reign this year and that thing is amazing. I like it better than the pike. No problems with full travel. Herz what is your inseam ? Did you like the fit?
Thanks
 
Tom the Bomb said:
I am picking up that bike tomorrow. I have a pike on my tracer and had to remove the spacer that came with it and good to go. Very plush, maybe to plush. On really steep rocky stuff I turn the the comp one click to the rt. I put a 2015 fox 36 on my reign this year and that thing is amazing. I like it better than the pike. No problems with full travel. Herz what is your inseam ? Did you like the fit?
Thanks

I assume you are still talking about the Ibis and not the SB5c that Todd rides. I don't know my inseam, but most of my 6'4" of height is torso - hip to shoulder. Consequently, I feel cramped on any frame with a real (parallel to ground) effective top tube of less than 25.5". The Ibis was a little cramped, but not bad. I think it had a 60mm stem, so I would go 70mm (I won't go longer. I don't like long stems). The bars were about 730, so I would go 780 ish. Those two adjustments would make it about perfect. As for inseam, I had to raise the 5" drop KS LEV about 1.5" above the seat post collar to get proper leg extension.

If I recall your spectacular physique, your height is from longer legs. You would probably need to extend the seat post another inch, which would require more spacers under the stem to keep the bars in reach. You could probably make it work. It's not the biggest XL frame out there, but it's better than older Ibis "XLs."

Have fun demoing!
 
"I don't know my inseam, but most of my 6'4" of height is torso - hip to shoulder."
 
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Thanks guys! I was actually referring to the Inline for the Intense but Id like it to be pretty firm on the climbs. Avalanche or Push might be a better option, and less $$$ bets. The Yeti is dialed so I'm going to leave it.
 
Bruinbiker said:
Thanks guys! I was actually referring to the Inline for the Intense but Id like it to be pretty firm on the climbs. Avalanche or Push might be a better option, and less $$$ bets. The Yeti is dialed so I'm going to leave it.

I am very, very very glad to hear that! (About your Yeti)

Yes, check with Craig at Avalanche to see if he does Intense applications for your Fox. I'll bet he does. His work is better than PUSH in that he redesigns the shock rather than simply tuning what is there. I think he's charging about $250 these days. Winter is a good time to have him do it.

<a class="postlink" href="http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox%20DHX/Fox%20Float%20X%20Highlow%20Adjuster%20Kit.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/ ... %20Kit.htm</a>
 
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