TR - Catalina Island Bikepack

evdog

iMTB Rockstah
Bikepacking Catalina Island has been on my to-do list for a long time. It should be an easy 3-day trip, but with permits and reservations required it takes more advanced planning than I normally prefer. 406 has been working an odd schedule right now giving him mid-week off so with temps still looking reasonable it seemed like a good time to go. Managed to snag the last campsite at Little Harbor that was free for consecutive nights.


Our shuttle to the island

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Walking off the ferry in Avalon was a bit of culture shock - tourist hell. We picked up our bike permits at the visitor center and immediately watched some girl back her golf cart into two carts behind her when she couldn't figure out how to put it in drive. Seeing the golf cart tow cart made more sense after that.

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Get us out of here! We climbed out of town to the south up Wrigley Rd. Apparently this road forms part of a loop all the tourists take their rental golf carts on so it was a parade of them going the opposite direction. But at least we were away from the worst of the mayhem.

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See ya later, suckers! Here we turned onto the dirt East End Road where the real climbing began.

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Warning!

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This road would take us up to 1,600ft, the high point for both day 1 and the entire trip.

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The elevation wouldn't kill us, but the heat just might. Heatwave across the southwest appeared on forecasts soon after we booked reservations.

My little thermometer showed between 90 and 100F and there was minimal breeze on the climb

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Finally up top we get a view back down to Avalon

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The Trans Catalina trail, along with other trails here aren't open to bikes. Most of the sections we saw were steep and stair-steppy, so I was actually fine with that. From the map it looks like half or more of TCT is on old fire roads.

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Few trees means little shade, so shade structures have been installed along the TCT and bike routes. We came across a fountain soon after this as well.

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The Catalina Island Conservancy clearly has our safety in mind. That cattle guard would be really dangerous to ride over!

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We had another 8-9 miles to go to the Airport where we could refill water and maybe get some food. Fortunately the main climb for the day was over, it would be all rolling ridgetop terrain from here on. And some cloud cover moved in. It felt 20* cooler.

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Had a coke and snack and picked up a couple expensive beers for later, then continued on. The remaining miles would trend downhill.

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View of the west coast. Little Harbor campground is in among the palm trees in the background. You can see the TCT switchbacking up the ridge above it.

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We got into camp and met the neighbors. Some were more social than others. Went over to the beach for swim and to use the outdoor shower.

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The girls next to us had to wait across the way until this guy moved away and started napping. We were told he likes our campsite in particular, and even knows how to turn the water spigot on with his nose.

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Rather than build our own we commandeered the neighbors' campfire while they went off for a sunset paddle.

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Good day on the bike. The only bummer is getting a late start due to ferry schedule meant the ride started in the heat of the day. It would have been much easier if we could have started earlier. Heard about a few backpackers who needed assistance from the rangers. It really cooks once you're away from the water.

Stats 24.5mi, +/- 3,200
 
Day 2

Nothing to do today but ride, eat, and swim. The plan was to ride as far north as bikes are allowed which is Parson's Landing, about 8 miles beyond Two Harbors.


First we'd have to climb out of Little Harbor. Easy climb of 800ft in 4 miles, then a fast downhill to "town"

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View into Two Harbors

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It was busy, but not obnoxious like Avalon. Mostly people coming and going to various activities. Seemed like food establishments weren't open yet.

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We poked around for a few mins and ran into a friend. Refilled water, then continued on our way. Looking back on the harbor

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There are a bunch of boat in campsites below the road north of Two Harbors. Those would be pretty cool to stay at.

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Each cove had plenty of boats moored as well.

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There seemed to be some sort of private camp in each of the big coves

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My gps route suggested a 5,000ft day but the road out to Parson's was pretty much flat. No way we were going to get close to that. It only took an hour to get out there.

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Campsites are right on the beach, but there was no fresh water or shade. Except behind that big rock, so that's where we headed.

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A swim was in order. Waves made things interesting. Once you hit the surf the beach was all gravel and small rocks, not sand. My ankles got pummeled by small rocks moved by wave action so I didn't stay in very long.

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Had a snack and relaxed for a bit, then pedaled back.

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There were plenty of people out hiking on the roads, including a few scout troops. Not many vehicles fortunately. That section of road is part of the TCT, forming a loop from the north end back to Two Harbors. It was a nice ride. Wouldn't want to hike it.

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Stopped for a burger at this place. Witnessed a classic Karen moment. Lady backpacker who was in line to be seated got into it with a group that sat down at an empty table. There were plenty of empty tables. "Excuse me, there's a line!"

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406 wanted to do some snorkeling so we headed over to the campground. Lots of fish. I forgot my mask, so I did some reading instead.

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And tried not to get crabs

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The campground is on a hillside and has better views than Little Harbor.

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Made the pedal back to camp in under an hour. Bison still hanging around. Went for another swim then had dinner. New neighbors arrived via taxi with 4 kids in tow. Turns out the kids were well behaved but the parents were obnoxiously loud.

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The sun sets out of view of the bay, so we went for a hike up the TCT to get a view. Looking back down on camp. We had the furthest possible site from the water.

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Not a bad sunset at all.

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Made it back to camp without needing lights, then sat by the fire for a while. Neighbors were still up making tons of noise past 11 when I went to bed.

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Another good day. Stats 31mi, +/-3,400ft
 
Day 3

Today would be the shortest but we'd still have to climb up to the main ridgeline. Planning to exit via Middle Ranch Rd. We'd been told it could get very hot through there, but at least we'd get to the climb first thing.


Checking out the beach in morning light. Not many people around.

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We had a couple 3-400ft climbs to deal with before the main one.

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Checked out a beach near the road

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Very nice, even found a bit of trail

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Middle Ranch Road passed through...you guessed it, a ranch. Looks like that's where a lot of the Island's operations are based out of. A few vehicles but not as much traffic as the route we took on day 1.

Soon we were at the top and ready to drop right into Avalon. The Stagecoach Road down is lined with Eucalyptus Trees, which provided some nice shade.

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Avalon just out of sight beyond the ridge

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The road had brand new asphalt which made for a quick descent

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A gate to keep the yahoo's out

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Nice view of the harbor and town

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A bit more snorkeling at Lovers Cove. Try not to get run over by the glass bottom boats

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Back to town for a burger before the ferry home.

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Stats for day 3 - 20mi and +/- 2,300ft.

Nice short trip. The distances on the island are perfect for a 3 day bikepack with plenty of time to relax. It could easily be done in two days and camp at Two Harbors or Parson's Landing, but why rush? I'd bring my mask and snorkel next time, and probably set the trip up to do more hiking. Most roads aren't open to bikes, a lot more of them can be hiked.
 
Way to knock it off, Ev. Nothing one can do about the heat but swim more...

I call it a SoCal must-do, unique ride or bikepack. We spent four days on what sounds like the same route you took, finishing through the ranch. We camped and lounged for half a day at Parsons and one last night at Blackjack.

TFPU. You guys made the most of it, success. :thumbsup:
 
Yeah the road up to Blackjack was about the only bike-legal route we didn't take. Could have camped there but Little Harbor sounded nicer. No spots available at Parsons, although it was deserted. Maybe it was closed to camping, or people may have bailed on reservations. A lot of Little Harbor was unoccupied both nights as well. A downside of reservations filling up months in advance, its so far out people end up not being able to use it or bail when conditions aren't ideal.
 
The ferry from San Pedro runs to both Avalon and Two Harbors. So you could do a point to point getting a ferry to either one and back from the other. That would be a pretty good way to do it without committing to multiple days or doing a loop. There are a few ways you could do a loop as well.

Our moving times were 4:30 from Avalon to Two Harbors and just over 3 hours back. Taking the long way out on the East End Rd probably added an hour compared to the more direct way up Stagecoach. It took just over an hour each way to ride out to Parsons Landing and back. So a day ride is definitely doable.
 
All fire road. I think some of past the Gran fondo events have been the only time the singletracks have been open to bikes.

As I said above, the trail didn't look that inviting. Lots of steep climbs with stair steps. I'd ride it if it were open but wouldn't be much fun on a loaded bikepacking bike.

Looking at the map only about 14 miles of 38 on the Trans Catalina trail are actually singletrack. The rest of it shares various primitive and main dirt roads.
 
I hiked the TCT the past two years (October and December). Made it off the trail on the last day before Covid shut everything down last year. Saw a buffalo bluff charge a surfer who was using the shower at Little Harbor. Kinda funny to watch him try to hide behind that little metal pole. That trail is no joke. There is no way to pedal much of the trail and there is no "flow" to it. . The section out of Little Harbor going to Two harbors is more rock scrambling than climbing. I couldn't imagine doing it right now in the heat. Good on ya for getting over there and riding it. That looks like a great trip.

The trail map is deceptive for the TCT. For instance, the trail to the first campground (Blackjack) two miles of pavement to Hermit Gulch, a mile of fireroad, and 9 miles of trail. Most of the TCT is only wide enough for one person to walk on. The trail parallels the fireroad sections, about 10-20 feet off the fire road. The climb out of Avalon is ridiculous. The climb out of Little Harbor is almost strait up as is the climb out of Two Harbors. There is only about 5 actual miles of true "fire road" hiking, with the most being the walk back into Two Harbors from Parsons.
 
Good to know, thanks. The map shows the loop at the north end of the island as being entirely fire road. I figured it would be more like primitive double track than actual maintained fire road. If it's gone back to singletrack, even better. That's a section I'd like to hike at some point on a future trip.

The bison we saw at Little Harbor is a regular there. Finally saw the ranger end of day 2 and he said that one is pretty chill as long as you don't approach it, so he doesn't chase it off. Could have been a different one, or someone could have agitated it.
 
Great RR! I've camped on Catalina more times than I can count... 7? 8? But I've never done the full island on a MTB. 7 years ago a buddy of mine and I were gearing up to go, and then shortly after we got our bike-packing gear he had a cardiac emergency that precluded biking... so I get to experience your ride vicariously from NC.

I'm not sure if you covered this or not, but when you reserve your campsite, you can order water drops and firewood drops, and the water and wood will be waiting for you when you arrive.

And just mirroring what @Ricekrispyota said, the "hiking" trails can be ridiculous. I know the trails outside of Two Harbors are extremely steep - and this from someone who is used to CNF trails. And once you get up on the ridge overlooking the seaward (aka cliff) side of the island, some of them can be surprisingly exposed.
 
I can't seem to edit my posts even after 7 minutes (?)

Regardless, I just wanted to point out the water drops are for Parson's Landing, which is otherwise a dry camp. Firewood is for all camps, assuming they are still allowing fires in the fire circles, and there isn't a brush fire warning.
 
Yup, we ordered firewood for both nights. Maybe fires could be restricted later in summer, but the lack of dispersed camping and presence of rangers also reduces the risk of fires getting away from campgrounds.

Easy water access most places. On top of campgrounds there were also spigots at the Airport and at Haypress picnic area near the top of the Stagecoach climb, and places to fill in the towns. Parsons was the only spot without, though for our route it wasn't an issue. There was a spigot near Middle Ranch but it was off.
 
I enjoy Catalina and have logged a bunch of trips with the bike. I haven’t done the bike packing but it looks fun. We typically like to go when the crowds are thin and the grass is green (February / March). I usually camp at 2 harbors but have also camped at little harbor. I love the isthmus as we can base camp and get great rides to west end, airport, little harbor and usually target one day for an out and back to Avalon. The isthmus is super chill and we enjoy happy hour at camp after our ride with dinner & drinks at Harbor Reef Restaurant. Catalina is not for everyone, it’s expensive and somewhat restrictive. Mostly steep fire road, but the feel is awesome. I always say that I feel like I’m a million miles from LA when we are there and sometimes feel like I’m in Greece or Italy. Mind you, we avoid Avalon except to ride there & back for the day. A few beers and a burger at El galleon is a tradition for us.
We just got back from a 4 day trip in May and it was awesome! It amazes me how underutilized the backcountry feels!

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You can also order groceries and have them delivered waiting in a cooler at camp...and get your gear trucked in. I was vary confused looking at some of the people and their gear and camp, and then found out about those options. If I would have known, would have been cool to rent a sea kayak at little harbor. They leave a paddle at your camp site and boats are on the beach.

Nice write up Evdog. I will add a few photos(hopefully doesn't cause issues for forum this time).

Day 1:

Cool looking little houses in town:
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My set up:
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rack=cloths and food, flipflops
handlebar bag=sleeping bag, tent, snorkel
triangle bag=stove, fuel, food, sleeping pad, tent pole, etc
down tube bag= tools
feed bags=snacks and electrolyte water
pack=water, cooking pots

Steep up starts right away, topping out there was a nice grade down with some views to the west, prior to the next big up:
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Landing/taking off at the airport looked crazy. Bought $8 12oz cans of beer x2 for camp.
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Almost all down after the airport, but a good size hill next to a very posh vineyard. The fancy buildings kind of sticks out, with no other development in the area, they have a nice view:
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First view of camp:
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Tatanka:
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Day 3.

Back to Avalon, but first some exploring:
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Found the spot to camp next time:
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Paved road back into town was crazy. Dodging road raging SoCal Edison trucks and tour rigs, these came in handy:
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Did a bunch more snorkeling after a little people watching in town. Water was colder than 2 harbor, but tons of stuff to see.

Beer on the beach:
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the end:
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